Travel: Charleston, South Carolina

I considered making the title of this post "Charleston: Bring Your Stretch Pants" or "Charleston: Eat Everything" because, truly, when I think of Charleston, I think of food, food and more food.

A few weeks ago, my husband and I took an anniversary trip to Charleston, a city I've wanted to visit for quite some time. Within moments of arriving, I could see that it would be everything I hoped  {and more!} with its thriving food scene, rich history and friendly, quaint atmosphere, and I couldn't wait to sink my teeth into charming Charleston.

Things to Do: 

Listen, I'm not going to lie -- Steve and I spent 85% of our time eating and drinking during our all-too-short 4 day stay, so I don't have a ton to tell you about all the things the city has to offer than can't be digested. Since we were staying at a thoughtful friend's apartment in neighboring Mount Pleasant, a 20-some minute drive from the heart of it all, we did get to see a lot of the city by foot.

We'd take an Uber into Charleston as soon as we were up and ready, spend the majority of the day wandering the city, head back in the late afternoon to regroup and get ready for nighttime activities, then Uber back once again. Without a car, we got to weave in and out of little streets, parks and neighborhoods that we may not have seen otherwise.

Tip: If you want to walk the city, I highly recommend visiting at a time when it's not close to 100 degrees. Also, ladies, stick to comfortable sandals or flats -- heels and uneven pavement/cobblestone don't mix.

So, here's my short list of things we did that didn't require chewing:

Site Seeing 

If you're into lush gardens, mysterious alleys, flowering window boxes, cobblestone streets and elaborate wrought iron features... then this is the place for you. {And if you're not, then you can trail your wife looking at your phone the whole time. That's cool, too.}

I could have spent hours just wandering up and down the streets looking at colorful houses and buildings. The details are really astounding, and I couldn't help but stop every few feet and snap pics of the picturesque porches, incredible foliage and unique features that we'd stumble upon.

Musts: Rainbow Row. King Street. Waterfront Park. College of Charleston. Swoon, swoon, swoon.

Boone Hall Plantation

I've mentioned my love for novels set in the South {both historical and modern}, so it's no wonder that I made sure we visit a plantation so that I could experience it for myself.

The contrast between the striking grandeur and the heartbreaking history of these beautiful remnants of a time past left me a bit conflicted as I strolled the breathtaking grounds of Boone Hall Plantation. Having recently watched the History Channel's gut-wrenching remaking of the Roots miniseries, and having chosen the book The Kitchen House as my travel read for this trip {Tip: Read it. Bring tissues.}, the walk along Slave Street was quite sobering.

For me, it was an important part of my visit that I didn't want to rush through, so I took my time visiting each slave cabin {much to Steve's dismay -- it was HOT} and listening to the tour guide's monologue, taking in the heavy information and letting it settle. It was a bit deep for a vacation, sure, but in my opinion, you can't visit a place like that and only hear half of its story.

On a lighter note, the sheer beauty of the property made me want to twirl around like Maria in The Sound of Music right down the Avenue of Oaks. Wow. Just wow.

To be completely honest, while the "Big House" stands out as a gorgeous, stark contrast to the cabins and nature that greet you up front, I was slightly underwhelmed {though grateful for the air conditioning} upon entering. Definitely still interesting to see, but just not as captivating as everything else.

The logia was my favorite feature of the house, though sadly, I don't have any pictures since photography is prohibited inside. For you architecture and history buffs, please note that the house that stands today was built in the 1930's, so it isn't an authentic example of an antebellum plantation home.

Must Do: "Exploring the Gullah Culture", a vibrant and educational presentation given by a Gullah storyteller is filled with information and soul. Check it out!

Charleston City Market 

Like touristy stuff? Come one, come all! Hate crowds, sweating and cheesy souvenirs? Stay far, far away.

Though you will most certainly come across this monstrous marketplace as you explore the city and most likely be drawn to it like a moth to the flame {it's sort of hard to avoid as it is several city blocks long!}, it's not everyone's cup of {sweet} tea -- namely, my husband, who stepped foot in the bustling open-air sheds and quickly recoiled, letting me know that he'd be finding a bar to sit at during this leg of my adventure.

I, who enjoy a good shopping session from time to time, couldn't even make myself stay for more than a quick lap down the never ending corridor of vendors, tables and wares... it's a lot to take in. Enter at your own risk.

Note: In the end, I picked up several pounds of pralines at a candy shop down the road for everyone back home to enjoy. While sweet grass baskets are lovely, I think they appreciated the edible gift!

Things We Didn't Do That Many Suggest:

• Carriage Tours
• Ghost Tours
• Folly Beach
• Angel Oak Park on John's Island
• Historical Sites & Museums {Ft. Sumter, Nathaniel Russell House, Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon, etc.}

Things to Eat & Drink

Ok, now let's get to the good stuff, because there's plenty of it in Charleston... food and drinks, that is!

I had a list as long as my arm going into this trip and I knew that we wouldn't get to all the spots we wanted to try. What I didn't know was that I'd be given another list just as long by all the friendly residents adding to my indecisiveness.

In the end, we wound up eating at places that were easiest to get to given our transportation situation and only made it to about half the spots I originally intended on visiting. But I can tell you this: We didn't have one bad bite in Charleston. {Although we did have a couple of run-ins with less-than-extraordinary drinks. More on that later.}

When we travel, we like to bounce around to as many spots as possible and eat small meals or appetizers so that we can get a little taste of a lot of places instead of one big taste at just a few. That's just how we roll. So we skipped over some spots that I'm sure were great, but were a bit too pricey or upscale. Here's a list of some of the places we visited:

Breakfast

Saveurs du Monde Cafe (Mount Pleasant) - A small French cafe that was within walking distance of where we were staying, we were happy to stumble upon this spot for the tasty quiche and good coffee! Perfect start to the morning. 

Hominy Grill - I had read about Hominy Grill long ago when I was first starting to daydream about a trip to Charleston and decided that it was a stop worth making. IT WAS.

I loved the atmosphere, friendly service, and classic, rib-stickin' breakfast options. We got there as it opened and walked right in, but I have a feeling that this place can get busy, so plan accordingly. Also, get the Homemade Blueberry Vanilla Pop Tarts if they have them! 

Eli's Table - Our last stop in the city, Eli's Table wasn't a bad way to say goodbye.  The feel was a little more stuffy and subdued than I was hoping for, but the Gouda Grits were a worthwhile calorie splurge and made the experience a good one.

Lunch

Craftsmen Kitchen & Taphouse*- While the food here was really good, we had an unfortunate experience with warm beer due to a refrigeration malfunction. After coming in from the hot and humid weather, that was a real bummer, but they did make up for the problem by offering  canned and bottled beers that were much cooler! I was surprised at how good the Bahn Mi & Jerk Pork Tacos were.

 

The Dinghy (Isle of Palms)* - Somehow, we found ourselves on the beach at Isle of Palms around lunch time, and wandered {staggered?} around in the brutal sunshine until we happened upon this place.

Small and unassuming, this place actually had a killer Turkey, Brie & Apple Butter Panini that you might not expect from its beach-bum atmosphere. The cocktails were pretty tasty, too! 

Appetizers/Dinner

5 Church* - Um, this place is flippin' cool. As the name might suggest, the restaurant is housed in a former church. The Crispy Beet Sliders and Mussels are "heavenly", and the cocktails are on point.

Tavern & Table (Mount Pleasant)* - This large spot had the feel of a clean, modern space that could really be located just about anywhere and the menu didn't come across as super unique, but we did enjoy the bites we shared {the Kale & Brussels Salad and Prosciutto & Fig Flatbread} and the pretty views of Shem Creek from the dock. 

Barsa* -  They had me at their motto: "Spanish Influenced with a Southern Drawl." Neither of us were super hungry the night we visited Barsa, but that didn't stop us from ordering some of their flavorful tapas like Pan con Tomate, Roasted Beet Salad and Stuffed Piquillo Peppers. They were all perfection. Great place to split a few dishes with friends.

Cocktails

Mercantile & Mash - I'm so glad I Googled and found this place! Potent & clever cocktails, bocce ball, table shuffleboard and backgammon. Plus a band with a banjo. So fun and random.

Prohibition - Knock 3 times and whistle Yankee Doodle to get into this seedy joint. Just kidding. They have a regular front door, a lovely bar and a cool, underground vibe without the fear of getting busted by the feds.

Stars Rooftop & Grill Room - Highly suggested by locals for the rooftop view {which I personally didn't find that spectacular, sorry}, this place was buzzing with energy, bachelorette parties, and young, giggly singles. In other words, it wasn't my scene.

But the food did look good, though we didn't eat here. Tip: Get a seat at the bar for drinks inside; a julep served in a plastic cup just doesn't have the same effect.

Windjammer (Isle of Palms) - Sticky tables, fried everything on the menu and patrons in cover-ups. Yep, it's a beach bar! Definitely not trendy, hoity-toity or upscale, but a nice break from the $15 drinks downtown. Sand volleyball courts and an ocean view are a draw. 

Shem Creek Bar & Grill - Oh, goodness. Where do I begin? The long dock extending out from the restaurant that overlooks Shem Creek looked so tranquil that we were lured over to check it out.

I, who can drink just about anything, was not able to take more than a sip or two from my cocktail. The place was packed and looked like it might be a beloved spot for locals, but unless you're just looking for place to peer out onto the creek, I'd skip it. Or maybe just get a bottled beer to be safe. 

Dessert & Treats

Carmella's Cafe & Dessert Bar - A friend of mine suggested this spot and it turned out to be the perfect place for a midafternoon pick-me-up and hideaway from the heat. If you have a sweet tooth {or a hankering for some boozy dessert cocktails}, you'll definitely want to stop in to this alluring little place!

Steve went for Vanilla Bean Gelato {so exciting, I know}, but I opted for a heaping helping of Hazelnut Mousse that was divine. The sugar rush helped get us through the rest of the afternoon.

If you're still reading, then hats off to you! I know this post was quite a doozy but I couldn't possibly summarize just how much I loved Charleston in just a few words. I think it's safe to say that we got a good taste of the place and got a good feel of its charm in our short visit.

I know Tony Bennett left his heart in San Francisco {another fantastic place, by the way}, but I left mine in this dreamy Southern city and I hope to be back again soon!

Have you visited Charleston? What are your favorite spots?